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Stained Glass Door Inserts Article

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18. Stained Glass Door Inserts

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If you thought cutting through a hollow-core door would ruin it, think again: here are step by step instructions to show you how to correctly cut the door and strengthen its structure so you can add these windows or any other inserts you choose. So, step one, pick a door that gets a lot of sunlight, and get ready to have it sparkle.

Materials:

Panels of stained glass, clear glass or acrylic, a pencil, a drill with a large wood bit, a jigsaw, some safety glasses, a miter saw, some scrap boards, an air nailer, some 3/4" nails and 1-3/8" nails, and some decorative trim.

Remove the door from its frame and rest it on a secure, flat work surface.

Determine how many "window" inserts you want in the door and what material to use.

Place the glass or other insert material on the door and trace around it with a pencil. Home improvement centres typically will cut glass or acrylic to size for you at the time of purchase; you also can cut it yourself.

To cut your own glass, place it on a scrap of carpet to cushion it, then measure and mark the end points of the cut. Line up a metal straight edge on the marks, hold it down firmly and draw a glass cutter along the ruler with firm, even pressure. Don’t slow down or stop when using the glass cutter, and don’t go back over the score line a second time. Hold the edge of the glass with one hand on either side of the score line, thumbs on top. Applying even pressure, roll your hands away from each other to snap the glass in two.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection and keep children and pets away when cutting glass. Tiny glass shards fly in all directions when you snap the glass. Make sure to clean up any shards.

Drill a large pilot hole in the corner of one of the shapes traced on the door. Insert the jigsaw blade through this hole, and then cut out the shape. Cut just to the outside of the line so the insert will slip in easily. Repeat for the other insert outlines.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection and use caution when using a power drill or power saw. Make sure the work piece is well-supported and that you aren't drilling or cutting into the work surface below.

Once the shapes are cut, take a close look at the hollow areas of the door. These need to be filled in to support the inserts and to give a solid nailing surface for the trim pieces.

Measure the width of the hollow cavity and cut a piece of scrap wood to the same thickness. Measure the length and width of the cut-out and cut the scrap wood to fit inside the cavity on all sides.

Slide the scrap pieces into the cavity so they line up flush with the cut-out. Nail them in place with an air nailer and 3/4" nails.

Safety Alert: Always wear safety glasses and use extreme caution when working with an air nailer.

Select some decorative trim to frame the insert. Measure the dimensions of each cut-out, subtract 1/2" from each side and cut the trim to length, mitering the corners. This will give the trim a 1/4" overhang all the way around the hole.

Note: If you plan to stain your trim, do so before installing it.

Position the trim pieces over the cut-out, checking for fit. Secure them to the door, nailing into the pieces of scrap wood installed in the door cavity.

Repeat for the other inserts until all are framed with trim.

Turn the door over and set the inserts into the cut-outs, resting on the trim overhang.

Measure the inside "walls" of the cut-outs and cut decorative trim to cover them. Cut the trim and miter the corners; set the trim vertically on the miter saw so the angles go the right direction.

Install the trim pieces flush against the blocks nailed in earlier, using 1-3/8" nails. The trim needs to cover the edge of the insert material to hold it in place. Repeat for all inserts.

Finish the project by framing the recess with another layer of wood trim. Measure, miter and install the framing trim the same way as for the other side of the door, nailing into the blocks in the door cavity. Repeat for all inserts.

Hang the door and enjoy! This project works best on doors that get a lot of sunlight so you can see the full effect of your handiwork.